'Camping on the farm' is also possible – or especially – in the Dolomites of South Tyrol, a heaven for hiking

The snow is starting to fall now, and that won't last for many months, but the Dolomites in South Tyrol have much more to offer than just skiing. Metro caught the tail end of summer there in northern Italy (no, not Austria). We're happy to recommend South Tyrol for a period in 2026, without snow. Because it's so beautiful, and there's so much to do (children too, or perhaps especially). What we did? Camping on a farm... and hiking, lots of hiking.

Farm camping is quite common there (and even originated in the Dolomites, see further on in this travel article). South Tyrol has no fewer than 1,650 (!) farmers, some of whom are farmers, who offer holidays alongside their regular work. This way, they earn a little extra money, as living on the farm alone is often not feasible. Farm camping is quite different from our rural surroundings, where we temporarily park our tent, caravan, or camper at farms. In South Tyrol, there's no flat meter to be found, so all those farmers built chalets and apartments to accommodate their guests. This Metro traveler had never heard of farm holidays in the Dolomites, so we went there with an open mind.

For those who want to travel much faster, we recommend celebrating New Year's Eve in Dublin, Ireland. Metro 's Roos already experienced this "amazing experience." For some winter warmth, we recommend Aruba, where we immersed ourselves in the world of wellness .

Metro settled in the Dolomites of South Tyrol, in the municipality of Thurn, just south of Innsbruck and north of Verona. We were invited by Roter Hahn (which also has a Dutch website ). Roter Hahn offers farm holidays in South Tyrol. And so we found ourselves in the middle of nowhere , just 900 meters from the small town of Antermoia, with a population of three hundred, and another village, St. Martin. A mere kilometer doesn't tell the whole story here, though; it can also be a climb that will make your calves cramp. In winter, it's (naturally) a ski resort; there's a ski school for children nearby where Metro stayed.

The "heaven" in the title of this travel article is no coincidence, because wow, were we high up? The drive to the 1600-meter-plus altitude is a spectacle in itself. You'll wind your way up steeply (tip: occasionally shift into first gear and don't look to the left into the abyss next to you if you're not quite used to this yet). The only downside to a holiday like this in such a remote location: if you want to eat in a restaurant, you'll always have to drive a bit. That means you'll have to wind your way up and down the mountain again in the evening. In the dark. After a few days, you'll get used to that too.

Once at the top, our stay for a few days awaits us: Farm Fornellahof La Majun, owned by the hospitable Kathrin (born 1983) and Helmuth Erlacher (born 1976) and their three children, Hanna, Niklas, and Julian (whom we missed due to school "further down"). The Erlachers run a cattle farm with eight cows. We didn't see them either, as they graze miles away. Kathrin primarily takes care of the guests, while Helmuth takes care of the farm.

"But eight cows, you certainly don't have that anywhere in the Netherlands," the latter says, laughing. Kathrin immediately realizes she needs to translate. Her husband speaks German, like so many in this area, but in a Tyrolean dialect. German lessons in high school aren't quite enough for this. The couple makes many products themselves (from yogurt to honey and lemonade syrup, which you can also buy at the small reception desk to take home). They have the cows' milk processed locally.

Or not. When Kathrin brings a very varied and extensive breakfast with a cart the first morning, she points to a bottle of "milk straight from the cow." That's not the reporter's favorite, so the other mornings the cart is filled with processed milk.

A few years ago, the two of them built a beautiful complex with four apartments (before that, the holidaymakers slept in their own house, next door). I think the temporary accommodation is roughly the same size as my apartment in Amsterdam, but with all the wood, it's much nicer. The view from the enormous balcony is breathtaking (actually, that's true for the entire area). At least, when there's no fog, the clouds hover at eye level around the mountains. The most striking feature is the nearly 2,900-meter-high Peitlerkofel Pütia, which you can see in the photo above behind La Majun. You can practically see the mountain from anywhere in the area, and hiking 'around' that colossal rock is beautiful, truly beautiful.

Helmuth's grandfather, Bino, was born on their current farm in 1945, the fourth of nine children. He was also the one who founded Fornellahof La Majun in 1977 for tourists who wanted to stay in South Tyrol. It must have looked quite different back then when you see the complex today, where all the energy it needs is even generated in-house. The current owners are committed to environmental stewardship, as you'll read in a booklet as you enter your holiday home.

Guests in this region stay on working farms and can experience farm life (from cattle ranching to fruit growing to winemaking) up close high in the mountains. They can also simply sleep there and leave the farm life behind. For those who are open to it, it's fantastic for children; they can help out on the farm, from milking cows and petting calves to taking a tractor ride through the farmer's fields.

At La Majun, as Kathrin and Helmuth show us during a tour, a small playground has also been built. In a separate building with hutches full of rabbits, a kind of hayloft has also been built, but on the ground. Holidaying children can dive and jump in it to their heart's content. These holidaymakers are more likely – and even occasionally – to choose the sauna in the building. Guests must mark a time slot with chalk on a small blackboard next to the door. Then you have a whopper of a sauna, an outdoor pool, and a relaxation area all to yourself, with a view of the mountains.

About those mountains: we also show South Tyrol in winter in the video below:

Characteristic of almost all Rother Hahn locations in South Tyrol: you can enjoy delicious products from their own farm, locations always have that aforementioned wellness area with mountain views, and you are guaranteed outdoor activities such as hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, and horseback riding.

The first hike Metro chooses starts from a well-known hiking point in the area, Passo delle Erbe. This is even higher than the accommodation. The chosen route is only about 6 kilometers, but it's challenging (and unfortunately, a bit rainy). The first kilometer is almost entirely uphill; it seems endless. Just catching your breath, the scrambling over scree begins. Up, down, up, down—with every step, you have to pay attention to where you're putting your foot.

Every 50 meters, you don't know what the next 50 will be like. A walk on the beach or in the Veluwe is a completely different story, but once you get used to it, it's also quite doable. You feel a sense of accomplishment when you reach "the finish." You understand: if you never walk at all, hiking in South Tyrol isn't such a good idea. Make sure you wear good hiking boots and bring enough clothing, food, and drinks, because the weather can change quickly. You won't find a snack bar along the way...

Luckily, the day after that first hike, Metro had arranged to meet Nadine Messner of Roter Hahn for a Tyrolean lunch (salad and a beef stew). This was fortunate, as a native of South Tyrol, she had plenty of tips on where she enjoys long hikes. It was also because this happened to be the "bad weather day" of the week. It was absolutely pouring (we hope winter sports enthusiasts will soon find the same snow).

We meet in Brixen, with fewer than 25,000 inhabitants, the second-largest city in South Tyrol. It's just under 30 kilometers from our accommodation in La Majun, but in the mountains like here, that's still almost an hour's drive. Up, down, and back again, often on narrow roads. Never straight ahead. This driver finds it enjoyable (and beautiful, if viewing the surroundings is safe enough), but of course, it has to be a bit of a draw. Seeing so many amateur cyclists pounding through the mountains here is astonishing. That's unbelievable, isn't it?!

Nadine Messner loves to talk about her region—she's proud of it—and of course, about the addresses of holiday farms. "Around 1,650 holiday locations are offered by farmers in South Tyrol. Many also produce products like cheese, wine, fruit, and meat. Some even organize cooking events."

As mentioned before, farm camping originated in South Tyrol. Nadine: "The reason was that it could and still can be both scorching hot and freezing cold here. Over a hundred years ago, people from the city migrated to the mountains in the summer. The farmers provided temporary (holiday) shelter. After the Second World War, people also came from further afield, primarily from Austria and Germany. Now, tourists come from far and wide to visit the farms. They can use the money and can't live on just a few cows. A hundred years later, Roter Hahn now offers farm holidays in a wide variety of packages. From very simple to luxurious farmhouse accommodations with livestock and complete vineyards and orchards. You can make it as cheap or expensive (five-star accommodations are also available) as you like."

Now, most tourists probably hope to have a good time. However, the farmers and holiday providers hope that "we" will take the underlying idea into account. That is always: to experience farm life and the traditions of South Tyrol. Of course, this often includes children. For those who can't handle that, five farmers have an " adults only " sign on their doors.

Nadine: "The farmers who joined Roter Hahn are therefore bound by some strict rules. For example, they can offer a maximum of five apartments or eight rooms. We consider this important because it fosters a strong bond between guests and hosts—the farmers. Getting to know the life of farmers in South Tyrol isn't possible if there are too many guests."

When Metro asks her over coffee whether many Dutch people visit South Tyrol, or whether this story should emphasize that 'our tourists' should definitely come and see it, the answer is: "Both. The Dutch market has been important to us for a long time, even in the winter, of course." With a flair for marketing, she adds: "But I'd say: don't tell your readers to come to South Tyrol, but rather that they should spend a summer holiday here on a farm, haha."

And so we're off for another walk ( Metro 's main activity), or hiking if you prefer. Sometimes with that proverbial tongue hanging out, sometimes it's perfectly fine. What's often the case in this area, and usually unavoidable, is that many routes go from A to B and therefore don't complete a loop. We recommend the Komoot hiking app for this. You can select routes that go from A to A. You can also choose a maximum number of kilometers, and you'll immediately get navigation to the starting point. You can't select "beautiful routes"; you'll get them regardless of which one you choose.

When we are warmly waved goodbye by Kathrin and Helmuth, with somewhat stiff calves and thighs (especially due to the descent), the pain is already forgotten.

You'd love to make the most of your vacation and come home as relaxed as possible. What's the best way to do that?