Stone villages, abbeys, and trails to rediscover. Autumn in the Oltrepò Pavese.

When we think of Oltrepò Pavese, our thoughts immediately turn to the wines and flavors of this corner of Lombardy. But among the hills stretching south of the Po River, among vineyards and woods, lies a lesser-known and fascinating world of medieval villages, ancient abbeys, scenic trails, and a nature that invites us to slow down. This is an authentic Oltrepò, best discovered at leisure, especially in this spring and autumn, when the colors are softer.

In the heart of the Staffora Valley, Varzi is a village that retains its medieval charm. Its stone porticos, with arches and lights that change throughout the day, are an open-air art gallery. Walking under the ancient vaults, among shops selling cured meats, cheeses, and artisanal items, you can still feel the life of times gone by. Varzi is a place to explore slowly, letting the details guide you: the stone houses, the cobbled alleys, and the charm of the ancient castle, long owned by the Malaspina family. It is the ideal starting point for those seeking local, authentic tourism, away from the crowded tourist circuits.

Further upstream, nestled in the woods of the Staffora Valley, lies Santa Margherita di Staffora , a small village with an ancient soul. The archaeological finds of the Roman Forge of Massinigo and the remains of the medieval castle, also from the Malaspina family, tell the story of centuries of life in a strategic territory, traversed by merchants and pilgrims. Here, history intertwines with nature. The beech and chestnut trees surrounding the village accompany the paths leading to Pian del Poggio and Pian dell'Armè, where you can walk amidst views that stretch all the way to Liguria.

Further downstream, Ponte Nizza is the meeting point of spirituality and nature. Dominating the surrounding woods is the Abbey of Sant'Alberto di Butrio , founded in the 11th century: a Romanesque complex of rare beauty, with 15th-century frescoes and the mausoleum of the holy hermit. Not far away is the Grotto of San Ponzo , where the hermit of the same name lived. The drops of water filtering through the rocks are considered miraculous, and the silence that reigns in the surroundings enhances the contemplative dimension of these places. History lovers shouldn't miss the Romanesque Parish Church of San Ponzo , with its 12th-century baptismal font and time-worn stones.

Not far from here, amidst vineyards and woods, lies Fortunago , one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Its stone houses, restored with respect for tradition, overlook cobbled alleys that lead to the main square, dominated by the castle and the church of San Giorgio. From here, the view extends across the valley to the Apennines, and on clear days, you can even see the Po Valley. Fortunago is a place suspended in time, where the slow pace of the countryside blends with widespread hospitality and a genuine welcome.

The Oltrepò Pavese is also a region for hikers who want to experience it at a leisurely pace. Trail 315A , approximately 19 kilometers long, is one of the most beautiful routes for discovering its green heart. It begins in Torricella Verzate and passes through vineyards, farms, and small villages like Oliva Gessi and Mornico Losana , where the castle dominates the valley. It's a trail for those who enjoy being surprised by the details—the color of the vines, the scent of the earth, the sound of the bell towers—to rediscover a simple connection with nature.

Varzi, Santa Margherita di Staffora, Ponte Nizza, and Fortunago —united by trails and a discreet beauty—tell of a Lombardy border town, where the soul of wine meets that of the woods, and history intertwines with tranquility.