Meuse. Amel Pond Nature Reserve: a complete change of scenery

Not a sound of an engine. Neither on the ground nor in the air. The only persistent drone in the auditory landscape is that of insects foraging. Oh, there's another omnipresent sound. That of birds, of course. The little people of the reed bed or that of the great oaks of the Housse woods adjoining the pond. Everywhere, there's life. We discover the Amel Pond Regional Nature Reserve on foot, starting the trail in Senon.

First, there's a small path between woods and meadows that takes us to a first, comfortable observatory. Located almost on the edge of the pond, it looks like a Canadian cabin. Here, silence reigns supreme. The slightest sneeze and presto, everyone takes flight! By everyone, we mean about 45 species recorded this summer by the naturalists of the Conservatoire d'espace naturel (Natural Space Conservatory), which manages the area. The hike continues into the woods, in the land of makeshift mini-huts, made of dead branches propped up against the trunks of old oaks. A heartbreaking cry is heard. Clearly, the jay doesn't appreciate visitors taking their time. Come on, let's get out of here! Head to the second observatory 2 km further on, after crossing woods, meadows, and crops. There, the view is wider. Ideal for seeing large birds of prey, such as the marsh harrier or the black kite, hunting. The loop then climbs back across fields to Senon. Less bucolic, but still pretty! No need for GPS; the path is perfectly marked. Eight kilometers on foot wears out your shoes, but above all, it relaxes your mind!

Today, everything is beautiful, everything is calm. But a plaque "Commune decorated with the Croix de Guerre" on Senon's town hall reminds us that the village has not always been bathed in tranquility. The 16th-century Saint-Léonard church also has stories to tell, with its bullet holes frozen in its stones. Or through its lapidary engravings in the grounds of its old cemetery. On the square, panels tell the story of the building, classified as a historic monument in 1906 and literally cut in two in 1915. For history buffs, a stop is a must 4 km further on, at the next village: Amel-sur-l'Étang. At the start of the February 1916 offensive against Verdun, the German army had established a few hospitals and aid stations there. 2,284 soldiers are buried in the German military cemetery.