The first Hermés Birkin bag, which belonged to Jane Birkin, is up for auction.

Who could have imagined that one of the most coveted objects of recent decades would be born in mid-flight, in 1981, during a flight from Paris to London? The English actress Jane Birkin , sitting next to Jean-Louis Dumas , CEO of Hermès (1978-2006), lamented the lack of a bag adapted to her needs as a new mother. According to the firm's website, the executive immediately drew a rectangular, flexible, and spacious travel bag with a burnished edge and saddler's stitching. In 1985, Hermès gave Jane the prototype and asked her permission to name the new model in her honor. This prototype— the Birkin Original —was the first of its kind, with distinctive features that set it apart from the models Hermès would later market.

Today, it's one of the brand's best-selling bags, as well as exclusive and coveted. Thus was born the first Hermès Birkin bag, now an iconic model, and the first and exclusive piece that will be auctioned 40 years later in Paris on July 10th by Sotheby's .

Hermès gave Jane four more Birkin bags , but none matched the authenticity and sentimentality of her original prototype. She lovingly kept her original Birkin until 1994, when she decided to donate it to a charity auction benefiting the Association Solidarité Sida , a leading French AIDS charity. The bag was sold again at auction at Poulain Le Fur in May 2000 and has remained in private hands ever since.

Now, the accessory is back in the spotlight at the Paris Fashion Icons auction, which Sotheby's will hold on July 10 and will feature a series of garments and accessories from other luxury brands. However, the auction house has not yet announced the starting price.

“We’re going to communicate this privately to potential bidders at this point,” said Morgane Halimi, Sotheby’s global head of handbags and fashion. “Obviously , this is a unique piece, completely unlike any other bag , or any other Birkin. We often break records with Birkin bags at auction. We expect it to be as unique as Diana’s sweater or a game-worn NBA jersey. It has value for what it is and for what happened because of that bag .”

This original bag differs in several ways from the Birkin bags available on the market. Its size is unique , measuring just under 35 centimeters high and just under 40 centimeters deep; its strap is non-removable; the hardware is brass; the interior zipper is from a different manufacturer; and the studs on the bottom are a different shape. Another striking detail was that the bag included a nail clipper on a chain that hung from the base of the strap inside the bag for easy and frequent use.

The Birkin 's reputation for being difficult to obtain seems to be part of its charm, as reflected in several series and films. In the fourth season of 'Sex and the City,' Samantha Jones falls in love with a red Birkin 35 and, upon discovering the five-year waiting list, pretends the bag is for one of her wealthy clients. In 'Gilmore Girls,' it is given to Rory, one of the main characters, and the impact of receiving such a coveted and expensive bag is discussed. Details about how to purchase one of these bags remain a secret , but there are many rumors about the practices the exclusive firm employs with its client list, including having an established purchasing history with the brand and having paid considerable sums of money.

The Birkin is dressed in a rare traditional leather with unique characteristics. "The cowhide is tanned entirely using vegetable tanning, with an exceptionally transparent finish that acquires a patina and becomes more beautiful over time," as explained by the brand. This natural-colored leather, smooth or grained, reveals the purity of its lines, taking its name from the iconic actress, muse of its creator. It is a discreetly luxurious design that lacks large logos . It is distinguished by a structured body, two rolled handles, 'clou' feet, and a turning key closure, which can be secured with the accompanying padlock and key. Its retail price was once $2,000, although it now sells for around €8,000 . Measuring 35 cm wide, in the 1980s it was a smaller version of the Hermès Haut à Courroies, the travel bag favored by Jane Birkin's ex-husband, Serge Gainsbourg. Today, the Birkin is available in three other sizes: 25, 30, and 40 centimeters.

Strict distribution controls and scarcity have contributed to this bag becoming one of fashion's most coveted products and an asset in itself, as resale prices can multiply, reaching hundreds of thousands of euros. In 2022, the pre-owned luxury fashion retailer Vestiaire Collective broke the record for its highest sale with one of the world's most unique Hermès Birkin bag models: the "Faubourg." The bag sold for €158,000 in May 2022, following the sale of a very similar model for €112,000 in November 2021. This sale is a clear example of the continued rise in prices for this bag. In 2017, the Himalaya Birkin model was auctioned by Christie's, reaching a price of $380,000 , making it the most expensive handbag in the world.

Today, celebrities like Kim Kardashian, Victoria Beckham, Jennifer Lopez, and Georgina Rodriguez boast considerable handbag collections featuring several of these coveted models. According to Vestiaire Collective, searches for the Hermès Birkin have grown by 20% recently. The French luxury house remains among the top ten best-selling pre-owned handbag brands, alongside other brands such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, and Dior.