Pretty seaside town with 100 independent shops where Starbucks was forced out

For those unfamiliar with the breathtaking seaside village of Dalkey in south Dublin, Hollywood star Matt Damon perhaps captured its essence perfectly. He resided there in 2020 while filming The Last Duel, and when questioned about his temporary Irish home, he remarked: "Oh, it is incredible. It is one of the most beautiful places we have ever been. I mean, it is just absolutely gorgeous." Heaping on additional praise, he told radio station Spin 1038: "Even in the lockdown when they were like 'you've got to stay within 2km of your house'...

"I mean 2km here there are trees and forests and woods and ocean. I can't think of any place you would rather want to be in a 2km radius of. It is a little like a fairy tale here." Extending this radius by 13km brings you to Dublin city centre, accessible via the DART train service. Bono resides in neighbouring Killiney, just south of Dalkey, while other notable residents include Van Morrison.

Yet, while the picturesque and tranquil seaside town along Dublin’s coastline — frequently referred to as the "Amalfi Coast of Ireland" — proves immensely popular with tourists and serves as a sanctuary for celebrities, there is one notable absence: a Starbucks.

This may come as a shock to many who expect to find a Starbucks in most sought-after towns, particularly as the American coffee giant celebrates 20 years of trading in Ireland this month. A Starbucks once existed in Dalkey back in 2008, but it shut just 13 months later after locals staged a boycott in a show of solidarity with independent businesses.

Speaking to the Irish Independent, Peter O'Donovan, who runs a specialist coffee shop with his wife called Pepper Laine just off the main street, said: "I don't think it suits the Dalkey image. I think they were too big for somewhere so small, and people say that it took from other businesses in the area."

He further noted that the absence of a Starbucks — which he believes tourists would naturally gravitate towards for convenience — has proved a boon for the reported 100 independent businesses throughout the summer months.

Beyond coffee, the town’s most popular attraction is Dalkey Castle, constructed around 1390 and formerly used as a loading port during the Middle Ages. It now houses a Writers’ Gallery, featuring exhibits dedicated to literary greats such as James Joyce, who once lived nearby.

History aside, the charming town is also characterised by narrow streets lined with cafés, restaurants and eclectic bookshops.

It also offers a number of scenic walks that wind through the village and down to the coastline, where locals frequently take to the water for a swim.

For the more adventurous visitor, a rock climbing centre at the old Dalkey Quarry near Killiney Hill provides thrill-seekers with spectacular and unique views across Dublin city. Visitors can also explore the bay by boat, with trips on offer to nearby Dalkey Island, home to seals, birds and wild goats — and the occasional dolphin if you're lucky.

Pierce Brosnan, Mel Gibson and Russell Crowe are among the other big names to have rented in the area, while in 2022 Harry Styles was photographed at the Vico Baths taking a swim, much as Matt Damon did during his own visit to the popular bathing spot.