Steak and mash, Ricard and scratch cards: when new bistros copy popular bars

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Steak and mash, Ricard and scratch cards: when new bistros copy popular bars

Steak and mash, Ricard and scratch cards: when new bistros copy popular bars
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More and more establishments, especially in Paris, are adopting the codes of the popular bar, where people eat and drink while trying their luck at scratch cards. Is this the final stage of gentrification or are these harmless initiatives?
At Le Cornichon, in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. (Aliocha Boi/Libération)
by Kim Hullot-Guiot and photo Alyocha Boi

On the front, under the advertising sign "Jupiler - food bar", are written the words "pinball" and "weekly". When you enter the Cornichon, rue des Goncourt in the 11th arrondissement of Paris, the decor is in keeping with the decor: a bar where you can drink a coffee for 1.50 euros or a Suze as an aperitif, peel a hard-boiled egg or swallow a 4-euro express breakfast while flicking through the newspapers, scratch cards at the cash register, pinball in the back... You would almost think you were teleported to a popular bar from the 70s, if it weren't for the smokers now asked to go and foul their lungs on the sidewalk and the more contemporary musical atmosphere. Also, the prices: during the week, the starter-main course-dessert lunch formula (these days: steak and mash on Mondays, sausage stew on Tuesdays, blanquette on Wednesdays, etc.) is priced at 22 euros , a reasonable price compared to Parisian prices in 2025, but more accessible to executives than workers.

The positioning is assumed by Bertrand Chauveau and Paul Henri, the two childhood friends who are just thirty years old.

Libération

Libération

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