Samburu region in Kenya: Safari highlights away from mass tourism
Occasionally, a snort can be heard, but otherwise it's so quiet that the tufts of grass being torn apart can be clearly heard. The elephant herd stands quietly and peacefully on the banks of the Ewaso Ngiro River. Two young bulls head for the water, down a small embankment. They drink, return, and hold their trunks up.
The elephants move on, alternating with a herd of reticulated giraffes. Twenty-one animals, most of them adults, head for the water. They spread their front legs and their long necks arch toward the ground. The dark brown of the reticulated pattern on the animals' bodies is further intensified by the sun. The group is still unsure whether they want to stay on this side of the river—in the Samburu National Reserve—or whether they want to trek across to the Buffalo Springs National Reserve, which formally already belongs to the Isiolo Region.
Elsewhere in Kenya, several cars would be gathered at such moments. Tourists would be taking photos from the open roofs of their minibuses or open safari jeeps, using huge cameras and cell phones. The guides would be discussing information and trying to snag the best spot for the tourists. Not so in the Samburu National Reserve: Here, sometimes no other people are to be seen for hours.
Reticulated giraffes drinking at the Ewaso Ngiro River.
Source: Miriam Keilbach
The Samburu region is one of the most attractive and exciting landscapes in Kenya, yet it is visited by few tourists. It's too remote, too expensive. The journey takes seven to eight hours by car, and the short flight to and from Nairobi costs around €450. There are hardly any budget options locally. A game drive, as the safari trip in the national park is called, is more expensive than elsewhere in the country, probably due to its location.
Nevertheless, anyone who enjoys untouched landscapes, unique animals, authentic experiences with locals, and successful animal conservation projects away from the tourist crowds should come to Samburu. However, the situation with big cats in the region hasn't been looking so good in recent years.
While Samburu was once a guaranteed place for leopard sightings, the animals have become significantly more shy since they are no longer fed. Lions and cheetahs also live here, but are more difficult to spot than in the more tourist-friendly parks of Masai Mara, Amboseli, or Tsavo East.
Rare sighting: A lioness rests in the Samburu National Reserve.
Source: Miriam Keilbach
Of particular interest to safari tourists: The Samburu region boasts animals that are not found anywhere else in Kenya, or are found only in small numbers elsewhere. Inspired by the "Big Five" (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and buffalo) popular with safari enthusiasts, there are the "Samburu Special Five."
The reticulated giraffe is one of them, notable for its distinctive, net-like pattern. Grevy's zebras, with thinner stripes and much larger ears than common plains zebras, are critically endangered; only 2,000 of these animals remain in the wild. The Somali ostrich—males have a blue neck and legs—is the largest bird in the world. As with reticulated giraffes, only 12,000 Beisa oryx, large antelopes with long, pointed horns, remain in the wild. The giraffe gazelle completes the "Samburu Special Five"—an antelope with a long neck that is often seen standing on its hind legs while feeding.
There are only 2,000 Grevy's zebras left in the wild worldwide.
Source: Miriam Keilbach
Another highlight awaits in Buffalo Springs: a large natural pool filled with clear, turquoise water. Swimming is permitted here, making it a great place to take a short cooling-off break during your safari. With a little luck, you might spot wild animals from the pool.
Numerous villages in the region around Archers Post also offer tourists a glimpse into traditional Samburu culture. Umoja is a special village, as it has been a community of women and their children for 35 years. Umoja was founded in 1990 by Rebecca Lolosoli, who was fed up with the abuse at the hands of her husband. She and 14 other women moved out.
For 35 years, Umoja in northern Kenya has been a refuge for abused girls and women. But these women don't see themselves as victims. Instead, they've built a business educating people about female genital mutilation, women's rights, and child marriage.
The Umoja women have made it their mission to ensure that Samburu girls suffer less in the future than they themselves did. They travel in teams to villages in northern Kenya and educate them about women's rights and child marriage, violence, and female genital mutilation. They actively involve boys and men in this process – because women often undergo painful and life-threatening female genital mutilation because they cannot otherwise find a partner.
Today, 38 women live on the Umoja site, earning money through farming and livestock farming – and tourism. A visit to the village costs 2,000 Kenyan shillings, about 15 euros. The women also sell handmade jewelry. Those who don't want to stay overnight in one of the safari lodges in the national parks can either camp at the Umoja Campsite or sleep in a boma right on the banks of the Ewaso Ngiro River for around 30 euros – and chat with founder Rebecca Lolosoli over sundowners in the evening.
In addition to Samburu and Buffalo Springs, there are other national reserves: Shaba is named after the volcano of the same name, which last erupted 5,000 years ago. It belongs to the same ecosystem as the Samburu and Buffalo Springs national reserves, as well as Nyambene. The Samburu section has the most wildlife, followed by Buffalo Springs and Shaba. Therefore, it's not surprising that the other parks are even more remote.
The Samburu National Reserve is a perfect place to observe dik-diks.
Source: Miriam Keilbach
In the same ecosystem, indigenous villages have also joined forces and made a significant contribution to animal conservation. The Kalama Community Conservancy, for example, has been established. A watering hole will soon be built there so that more animals don't just pass through on their migration from north to south, but stay longer. To the north lies the Namunyak Conservancy, a model for the coexistence of animals and humans – land use here is coordinated with biodiversity, and locals receive a share of the revenue from tourism.
Speaking of community projects: In the heart of the Namunyak region, there's another very special place that will delight any elephant lover. At the Reteti Elephant Orphanage, founded and run by local Samburu people, orphaned and injured wild animals are nursed back to health and released back into the wild.
The elephants at the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary receive milk four times a day – then guests can see the animals.
Source: Miriam Keilbach
The primary focus is on caring for elephants, which, however, only come to the grounds for a short time four times a day for milk. Touching and feeding them is prohibited. Giraffes, ostriches, zebras, and various antelope species also receive help at Reteti. Some of the released animals also like to return to rest. While tourists learn more about Reteti's work and wait for the elephants, they are accompanied by giraffes, kudus, and zebras who show surprisingly little interest in humans.
But the fun isn't cheap: Reteti is about 80 kilometers from Archer's Post, about an hour and a half drive away. There's no public transportation, but the lodges and accommodations (including Umoja) offer tours. Admission is currently $35, but starting in September 2025, it will increase to $75 for adults. Children will then pay $50.
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