I went to one of Italy's most famous destinations but I wouldn't go back for 3 reasons

Lake Como has long been a favourite escape for travellers seeking a mix of alpine beauty and Italian charm. The lake is dotted with pastel-hued villages, elegant villas, and dramatic mountain backdrops. It's also just a short journey from Milan; trains depart frequently from Milan Centrale and Como San Giovanni, with journey times ranging from about 37 to 47 minutes, or it's an approximately one-hour and 36-minute drive.

I visited in early June, when the lake was at its most idyllic during peak season. It was nothing short of a dream at first, but I soon regretted my choice of location. Stepping off at the busy ferry port in Bellagio, my first impressions were nothing short of impressive: I could clearly see why it's called "the pearl of Lake Como". However, it quickly became apparent that Bellagio had been somewhat overhyped by the mass of TikTok and Instagram reels that flooded my phone in the months leading up to the trip.

The town is located on a promontory known as the Lario Peninsula, in the southern part of Lake Como. It is breathtaking during the day, even the hordes of tourists don’t feel too overwhelming as you navigate the winding cobbled streets. But as the sun sets, the atmosphere fades away.

Most restaurants closed surprisingly early—around 9pm or 9.30pm—with only a few remaining open until 10pm or 11pm.

After a full day of exploring the lake, we craved a relaxed late dinner or a drink with a view. However, Bellagio was already winding down.

Coming from Milan, where evening life spills into the buzzing piazzas, Bellagio felt strangely subdued. In hindsight, perhaps we were naive to expect that same late-night European vibe in a small lakeside town. Nevertheless, we were disappointed by the early hospitality.

It was particularly frustrating on nights when we returned from other towns, such as Lenno, where restaurants remained open later and the atmosphere was more relaxed, warm, and welcoming.

Our day at Villa del Balbianello (the home of some iconic Star Wars and James Bond scenes) concluded with a livelier, more enjoyable late afternoon in Lenno, emphasising that Bellagio simply wasn't the right base for us.

For a place as tourist-oriented and polished as Bellagio, the food did not meet expectations. We experienced a series of rather unremarkable dinners, and one evening in particular was spoiled by a very dry tiramisu served by a host who had strong opinions on local Airbnb owners.

While some restaurant owners were kind—one even lent us umbrellas and plastic bags when we were caught in a dramatic downpour—most meals felt overpriced and underwhelming.

Bellagio lacked flavour despite its culinary backdrop; however, there's something to be said for long queues at restaurants enticing us away from some of the most sought-after spots.

It is the busiest, most tourist-saturated town on Lake Como and feels far more commercialised than the quieter, more authentic areas. Even Varenna and Lenno, which are equally popular to Bellagio, possess a more rustic Italian charm.

That said, Bellagio is not without its appeal. Staying with an Airbnb host who lived on-site provided a wonderful opportunity to practise speaking Italian, along with enjoying some fresh fish cooked for us in the garden one morning after his fishing trip.

Another highlight was a genuine connection with the breathtaking landscape, of which Bellagio boasts almost panoramic views. It was akin to discovering San Giovanni beach. It's a hidden treasure accessed by a lengthy yet scenic walk (with plenty of stairs).

By that metric, Bellagio fails to be accessible to less mobile visitors beyond the initial cobbled streets that provide a gateway to the bustling port. Plus, there's little in the way of public transport in the town, bar ferries, buses and a couple of elusive taxis.

The slow ferry from Como to Bellagio is a must-do. It’s nearly a two-hour cruise passing by the charming villages of Tremezzo, Lenno, and Cernobbio. At just £18, it is scenic and relaxing, making the long journey absolutely worth it, though it also makes it a bit harder to accept that you're heading back to the drizzly UK summer.

The timetable for the ferry to other parts of the lake is straightforward if you visit the ferry port. A word of advice: buy your ticket first, then enjoy a drink at the restaurant opposite the port while you wait.

Complimentary snacks with an Aperol in the sun create a significantly more pleasant queuing experience, but don't get too carried away, or you might still miss the ferry.