I visited an underrated storybook town in Europe with 100 walking trails and meals for £4

Overshadowed by Poland's most famous city break destinations, Warsaw and Krakow, Zakopane deserves a more colourful reputation as an underrated gem of Europe. Tucked against the Slovak border, Zakopane in southern Poland offers a mountain escape every bit as dramatic as the Alps, but for a fraction of the price.

Here, trails fan out across the Tatras, wooden chalets glow with Highland character, and hearty food is served without Alpine mark-ups. Buses from Krakow cost just £7, and everything is wrapped up in a strong sense of folkish charm. Despite its reputation as the "winter capital of Poland," autumn is the sweet spot for visiting Zakopane, when summer crowds have thinned and the weather is more predictable than the wettest months of June, July and August.

The town is no poor cousin of the Alps—it's a destination in its own right. For keen walkers weighing up Switzerland, France or Italy this year, Poland's mountain capital offers a compelling case.

Vast and varied, the hiking menu is suited to all abilities and includes Morskie Oko, Poland's most famous trail. The accessible four to five-hour round-trip walk leads hikers to views of the shimmering lake ringed by sheer granite walls. Morskie Oko is the largest lake in the Tatra National Park, and a must-see for visitors.

Plan your visit according to the bus schedules from the Zakopane bus station, located on the train station forecourt. You'll need cash, but it's easy enough to navigate using Google Maps and chatting to locals at the station.

There are hundreds of walks you can take from Zakopane, taking the scenic sidewalks through the town to the foot of the Tatra Mountain range. For a scenic, easy walk, the picturesque Dolina Kościeliska and Dolina Białego offer beautiful valley strolls.

The challenging Giewont is great for hard-core climbers, and the beginner-friendly Nosal peak provides panoramic views close to the town.

Of course, the best hikes end with food, and none more so than Morskie Oko. At the water's edge, a rustic wooden hut serves hearty mountain fare. On my own visit, soaked from a summer downpour and hot in the mid-20s temperatures, I ducked inside to refuel.

With only a handful of złoty left in my pocket and a bus fare back to the centre of Zakopane to consider, I settled for pickled herring served on a slice of bread and a slice of apple cake. Though slightly strange on the palate, the combination is a memory that sticks long after any Alpine fondue.

Zakopane's food scene leans into its highlander (Goral) roots, giving it a flavour all its own. Oscypek, the smoked sheep's cheese with protected EU status, is grilled on every corner, often paired with cranberry jam.

Pierogi—dumplings stuffed with potato, meat, or cabbage—appear on every table alongside local beers, a pint of which in Zakopane costs around £2.20. You can expect to pay upwards of £6/£7 in the countries of France, Austria, and Switzerland.

After a day on the trails, Zakopane offers another alpine staple at a fraction of the cost: thermal baths, like Chocholowskie Termy.

This is currently the largest thermal pool complex in Poland, consisting of 30 outdoor and indoor pools and barrels filled with thermal water with medicinal and therapeutic properties. Chocholow is a tiny but interesting village located 17km from Zakopane.

Alternatively, those without a car in Zakopane can visit one of the town's most luxurious residences, Nosalowy Park Hotel & Spa. Visitors can purchase a Nabe Spa Day Pass to access the wellness centre, which is open until 10 pm each day.

The hotel has one of the most poignant addresses in the region: Villa Marilor. First built in 1912, it is now the hotel’s suave restaurant, though its impressive historic legacy remains intact.

Throughout the town, you'll notice the distinct architectural style of Zakopane, developed by Stanisław Witkiewicz in the 1890s. This style blends traditional Podhale region log-building traditions with Art Nouveau decorative elements.

Everywhere you look, steep A-frames and balconies are framed against the mountains, giving the town centre a storybook quality that Alpine ski resorts often lack.

Villa Koliba is the first Witkiewicz, while Villa Atma houses the Szymanowski museum. If you want to explore the buildings from the outside, wander along Koscieliska Street, the oldest street in Zakopane, which boasts many historic wooden houses.

You can fly into Krakow John Paul II International Airport (KRK) (the primary option) or Poprad-Tatry Airport (TAT) in Slovakia, then take a bus, train, or car to reach Zakopane. Krakow is a major international airport with good connections, while Poprad is closer to Zakopane but requires a shorter, different country transfer.

Direct coaches run at least every hour from Kraków's main bus station. The journey costs around £7 and takes just under two hours.

Once you arrive, the town is flat, compact, and walkable. Local buses and minibuses link trailheads and thermal baths.

Skyscanner cites October as the cheapest month to fly to Poland from the UK, with flights from £23. In September and November, flights start from £25.