Sofia Achaval de Montaigu’s Paris Fashion Week Men’s Diary: Saint Laurent, Dior, And More!

12

The Daily Front Row‘s chic correspondent, Sofia Achaval de Montaigu, has been soaking up the glamour in Europe. Below, she fills us in on all the highlights and the unforgettable moments that took place at the recent menswear shows for Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2026 season.

Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello presented his new collection for Saint Laurent at the Bourse de Commerce in Paris. The light invaded the room through an imposing glass dome, while hundreds of ceramic bowls floated over a shallow aquamarine pool—all part of the installation created by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot. The models walked slowly around the water to songs by Leonard Cohen, with their hands tucked into their tailored shorts pockets or conical trousers that reminisced the ’80s. Everyone wore big acrylic sunglasses. Shirts were, without a doubt, the main characters; their oversized shapes, structure, and exaggerated shoulders made us think of ’90s silhouettes. Some of them were made in silk and in powerful colors like orange, while others were almost completely see-through in lime, lilac and khaki colors. Many of the shirts were carefully tucked between their third and fourth buttons, revealing silk ties. Additional highlights were short brown pants with cuffed hems, cut as if they were dressing pants, paired with loose shirts and matching ties. One of the outfits I liked the most was a wide, yellow-green satin suit with rolled-up sleeves and trapeze-shaped shorts. We also saw more experimental pieces, like wet-look effect shirts, silk bombers camouflaging as anoraks, and items with military-inspired pockets. The tailoring followed the same light and relaxed idea, with unstructured suits that moved with ease. The color palette included earthy hues, ochre, yellow, navy blue, and a wide variety of browns. Some of the guests sitting first row were Manu Rios, Catriel and Paco Amoroso, Hunter Doohan, Mark Tuan, Lila Moss and Francis Ford Coppola.

Louis Vuitton

Pharrell Williams presented his latest collection for Louis Vuitton in an amazing setting: the Centre Pompidou. The set was turned into a large-scale Snakes & Ladders board designed by the Indian architect Bijoy Jain from Studio Mumbai, featuring hand-painted squares reminding us of the famous game. The soundtrack mixed gospel choir sounds and an orchestra, which turned the runway into a sensory experience. Over 60 models walked over the wooden runway wearing items inspired by Indian fashion: wide pleated trousers, boxy shirts and shiny leather bomber jackets in the spirit of Bollywood glamour. The modern dandy tailoring included two-pieces with big shoulder pads and baggy pants in cotton, corduroy, and colorful stripes. The color palette spanned from earthy tones like ochre and brown to vibrant hues of turquoise, baby blue, and lilac. The accessories were a hit in their own accord: the new Speedy P9 bag in exotic leathers with embroidered jewels, the LV Jazz and LV Tilted skating shoes, and new Buttersoft sneakers, great for an urban adventure. Thick chains also gave an edge to creole caps and backpacks, accented with embroideries of elephants and palm trees from a collaboration with Wes Anderson. The first row stood out with guests like Beyoncé and Jay-Z, Bradley Cooper, J‑Hope, Karol G, Jackson Wang, Future, and A$AP Nast.

Dior

Jonathan Anderson presented his first collection for Dior Men in Paris Fashion Week at the Cour du Dôme at the Hôtel des Invalides. Surrounded by polished wood and velvet walls, the show had art gallery vibes, decorated with 18th century still life pieces by Jean-Baptiste-Siméon Chardin. The collection was based in the deconstruction of formality: bows were worn inside out, while some coats adopted cape shapes and were combined with shorts and sport socks. Tuxedo shirts and vests were layered over denim and silk scarves, creating a contrast between the classic and the playful. We also saw wide cargo shorts in dramatic volumes and baggy trousers with hems combined with blazers. One of my favorite looks was a pair of green bermuda shorts, a white shirt with a bow, and a pink dressing vest with brown sneakers. The accessories were an important part of the line, with standout sneakers, suede sandals, and loafers. Another great detail were the Book totes that showed book covers, like Les Fleurs du Mal by Charles Baudelaire and In Cold Blood by Truman Capote. The color palette ranges from Dior classics like gray, white, blue, beige, and green to hints of pastels like lilac, pink, and light blue. The front row’s main character was Rihanna, who wore an embroidered black cape over a mint green blazer. She was accompanied by A$AP Rocky wearing denim, as well as Donatella Versace, Daniel Craig, Robert Pattinson, and Roger Federer.

Wales Bonner

At the library from the Lycée Henri‑IV in Paris, Grace Wales Bonner celebrated ten years of her brand with a collection called “Jewel”. The setting, with soft lights and musicalized by harpist Ranie Ribeiro, who played pieces by Dorothy Ashby and Shira Small, gave an intimate vibe to the runway. The show began with flared shorts paired with leather belts and jackets, completed with tasseled Montego loafers. The essence of British tailoring was seen especially in a wool and silk coat combined with high-waisted off-white trousers and a striped t-shirt. Another of my favorites was a jacket and technical pants, paired with Bonner’s new collaborative shoes with Y-3. We also saw unbuttoned shirts with upturned collars, and denim patchwork combined with joggers or formal knee-length formal shorts. The color palette included neutrals like creme, sand, and gray combined with blues and greens. Some highlights were flower-shaped brooches over jackets and berets. The finale presented tuxedos and fracs, creating an elegant ending to the event.

Hermès

Hermes presented its Spring 2026 men’s collection at the Palais d’Iéna’s esplanade, under the direction of Véronique Nichanian. Surrounded by big mirrors, the models wore summer-ready looks made of leather, natural fabrics, and straight silhouettes. The collection began with a clay-colored leather top that stood out due to its woven technique, anticipating a series of knitted pieces: bomber jackets, wide midi-length trousers, and cardigans. The lines were straight, urban, and subtly structured. My favorite looks included high-waisted pants in braided leather combined with sleeveless T-shirts, striped overshirts, and knitted bomber jackets. The looks were completed by minimalist sandals with thick rope straps and sparkly boots in crocodile leather. The color palette included caramel, coffee, vanilla, mint green, burgundy, and gray hues. Silk scarves and big tarp bags with leather handles were the main accessories in the collection. Models were styled very naturally with clean-cut hairstyles.

Jacquemus

Simon Porte Jacquemus took over Versailles again, but not its gardens, but the Orangerie, where a single row of wooden chairs faced the immensity of the trees planted in visible pots through opened windows. There, in between the shadow and the natural light, we saw the new collection titled “Le Paysan.” The show began with a model that walked through the runway until they opened a big door, inviting the other models to enter from the gardens. It was almost a theatrical scene, which set the emotional tone for the event. The collection was inspired by the designer’s grandmother, Claire, and her life in the countryside. The runway came to life in dresses with big volumes, blouses with V-necklines, and wide skirts with pleats. Main colors in the collection’s palette were cream, black, and white. The main fabrics were poplin, linen, and cotton, which were used to create geometrical and nearly sculptural shapes. We also saw suits with cinched waists and knee-length trousers. One of my favorite looks was a black leather jacket and a loose pair of gray trousers, completed with a little beret. The makeup was kept natural with untidily tidy hair, while some models wearing headscarves. Sitting first row were Matthew McConaughey and his wife Camila Alves, dressed in matching white jackets, as well as Aya Nakamura and Emma Roberts, who wore a white tutu and a black sweater.

“Balenciaga By Demna” Exhibition

Ten years after his debut, Demna Gvasalia says goodbye to Balenciaga with “Balenciaga by Demna”, an exhibit taking place at Kering’s headquarters at Paris’ historic Laennec monument. Organized in a cross shape, the show begins with the first rejection email Demna received from Balenciaga after graduating from Antwerp Academy. Throughout the expo, Demna selected 101 emblematic pieces from 30 of his Balenciaga collections. Clothing, shoes, and accessories are exhibited in unique displays with hyperrealist mannequins. The one that caught my eye the most is a replica from Eliza Douglas in the “Hourglass” suit from 2016. In an audio system narrated by Demna, he talks about fifty pieces in the range, offering reflections about his creative processes. The show is a journey through moments like 2016’s off-the-shoulder red puffer jackets, the emblematic Triple S sneakers, the Wing-Mirror bag and the blue leather “IKEA” bags. There’s also a humanoid sculpture by Mark Jenkins created from the last look of the Summer 2022 collection. The perpendicular side of the cross presented the most conceptual pieces, like the black set Demna wore at the Met Gala with Kim Kardashian. The expo’s exit also has a catalogue turned fashion magazine and a “Merci” in Demna’s voice.

Subscribe to our newsletter and follow us on Facebook and Instagram to stay up to date on all the latest fashion news and juicy industry gossip.