From the slopes to the pool in the snow, fine dining and live concerts: a chronicle of a day of skiing in Portillo

The view in the early morning is hypnotic. The sun, which had risen to illuminate the snow-capped peaks , gradually descended the mountain slopes and now makes Laguna del Inca shine, while waiters circulate among the tables offering coffee, scrambled eggs, and bacon.

At a round table on the other side of the large window, like every day, Don Henry Purcell is having breakfast with his family, among many other families with children, couples, and groups of friends. Henry is 92 years old , and it is said that until last year he skied on the slopes of Portillo , a place he knows like the back of his hand and that epitomizes his life.

And I think the fact that the whole family is here is like a symbol of the place, because if there's one thing that those who choose the Portillo Hotel highlight, it's that coming here is like spending a few days with the family , in the big house of a big family .

I saw newly arrived guests hug a waiter like best friends, two guys call the waiters by name, a rental person ask another guest if they wanted to wear the same equipment as last year or if they'd prefer to change.

Familiarity —and friendliness —in the treatment is one of the great strengths of this hotel, which has been in the hands of the Purcell family for 76 years: Henry's father bought it in 1949, and it is now run by his son Miguel; for them, this place is their home , and we—the guests— are their guests .

After breakfast, it's time to hit the slopes. Or rather, the slopes. The rental process is quick: boots, boards, poles, helmet; we're ready in just a few minutes , and since Portillo is a ski-in/ski-out hotel , we walk out the door, strap on our boards, and off we go!

That's also a distinctive feature of this place: no waiting, no lines . Not at the rental, not at the lifts, not at the restaurants on the mountain, of which there are two: the Ski Box , near the hotel, from where you can see those descending to the base, and Uncle Bob's , at the top of the Plateau chairlift, from where the view of the lagoon and the hotel below, next to the road that crosses to Mendoza, is breathtaking.

So, a warm-up at Las Lomas (one of the 35 trails in the center), some downhill runs along the more challenging Plateau, and the delightful " train trail ," as they call it here, because it's a long, easy trail that runs alongside the old tracks of the Trans-Andean Railway , which for several decades connected Mendoza with Santiago , on an incredible journey. The trail even runs alongside a stone tunnel built in 1910, through which the train passed.

Portillo has a long history as the oldest ski resort in South America , and its history is precisely related to the construction of the railway that connected Santiago de Chile with Mendoza through the Andes: it was the English engineers in charge of the work who started the practice of skiing in the area, as a way of relaxing in their free time.

Construction of the hotel began in 1940 and opened in 1949. Initially state-owned, it was privatized in 1961. The Trans-Andean Railway operated between 1871 and 1984, with a frequency of two to three times a week.

The old photos and advertising posters that can be seen in the hotel hallways tell part of that story. One of them, under "How to get there," says: "By Trans-Andean Railway, to Portillo Station ."

Unfortunately, that train, like so many others, no longer operates; now, the trip from Santiago is by car, a two-and-a-half-hour journey up "los caracoles," a series of 30 curves and turns that climb the mountainside to within 8 kilometers of the border with Mendoza.

If service is one of the hotel's strengths inside, outside it's its fluidity: get on, get off, and get back on immediately , "al tiro," as they say in Chile. And that's despite the fact that at this time (late June), the Juncalillo piste, the longest piste, which crosses the international route over a bridge, is still closed due to light snow.

Although it receives many beginners , and is in fact recognized for the quality and experience of its school instructors, Portillo is highly chosen by those in the know .

Especially since 1966, when it hosted the only World Ski Championships held in South America . It then became a meeting and training ground for top skiers and Olympic teams from around the world every winter.

The day goes on, and the après-ski experience offers several options: the lounge , where you can have coffee, play cards, and chat, with a view of the lagoon and the mountains; the sauna , to relax muscles strained while skiing; the immense sports field , a covered court with a spectacular parquet floor; the games room , where there's pool, ping-pong, foosball, a gym... and, of course, the pool .

With warm water and surrounded by snow , it's the most popular option, although you may have to be brave enough to go out in a bathing suit in the 6 or 7 degrees below zero Portillo afternoon.

And after dinner—which in high season has two seatings, 8:00 p.m. and 9:45 p.m.—it's time for the disco or bar , where there's almost always a live band . Today, Bandanna Chile is there, performing spectacular covers of '80s and '90s rock classics, and we finish the day just after midday.

We've called bingo! A full day for a day we hope will be repeated tomorrow, the same but different. Like a family vacation in a big house , amidst the snowy mountains, skis ready.

● Roundtrip to Santiago, Chile, from US$333 with a backpack, US$415 with a carry-on, and US$481 with checked luggage. Ski weeks at Portillo include airport transfers (a 2.5-hour trip).

● It is 260 km from Mendoza, but in winter the route is often closed due to snow or ice.

● 7-night ski week in high season. From US$5,250 at the Portillo Hotel (per person in a double room); and US$2,750 at the Octógono Lodge (per person in a room for 4 with private bathroom); ages 12 to 17, US$2,600; children ages 4 to 11, US$2,350; children under 3, free (always with an adult).

At Inca Lodge (room for 4 with shared bathroom), US$1,800 per person. Chalet for 4, US$11,650; for 6, US$18,700.

● Mini-weeks are also available, both 4- and 3-night. All programs include 4 meals a day, a heated pool, sauna, gym, yoga, cinema, game room, disco, bar, equipment storage, and activities.

● A day ticket costs 64,000 Chilean pesos (US$67.50) for adults and 48,000 (US$50) for children ages 5 to 11.

● In addition, there is a day pass that includes a menu at the restaurant (appetizer, main course, and dessert, excluding drinks). It costs Chilean pesos 78,000 (US$ 82) for adults and Chilean pesos 58,000 (US$ 61) for children.