The former notable café, a pioneer in the neighborhood, now has a new terrace with a mural paying tribute to its most famous neighbor.
In a Buenos Aires filled with specialty coffees, avocado tostón brunches, and menus fragmented into tiny sharing plates, there are still places that resist the massive foodification of the menu. In the face of this gastronomic gentrification, the legendary Café de García—founded in 1927 on the corner of Sanabria and Varela streets in Villa Devoto—continues to reinvent itself without losing its identity. Soon to celebrate its century, and after a careful renovation in 2024, it now adds a new chapter to its history: the opening of its terrace this spring, an open-air space with its own bar, tables, and a mural in homage to Diego Maradona, a distinguished neighbor and longtime customer, painted by the artist Francisco Ottogalli.
It all began in 1927, when Asturian Metodio García and his wife, Carolina Urbina, the daughter of Italian immigrants, rented the premises that had previously housed a pharmacy, which had closed after a poorly written prescription cost the life of a baby. On that modest corner, they opened a café that soon became a meeting point in a neighborhood that was growing steadily and orderly under the guidance of their mentor, the Italian businessman Antonio Devoto. Ten years later, the Garcías moved into the property, a typical early 1900s building with an octagonal floor plan, balustrades, sash windows, and a checkerboard floor.
For decades, it was a must-visit destination for locals, patrons, and billiard players. In the second half of the 20th century, the founders' sons, Hugo and Rubén, took over, expanding the menu and consolidating what would become the café's DNA: the famous homemade snacks.
In 2022, after the death of his brother Rubén and the loss of his son, Hugo García decided to sell the business. He didn't want the corner to end up converted into an apartment building or a chain restaurant. He chose Grupo Los Notables, specialists in rescuing historic bars in Buenos Aires. The decision was also influenced by a symbolic connection: some of the new owners, like the Garcías, are of Asturian descent. "When we became interested in the place, that connection to our own history weighed heavily. And also the wishes of the neighbors: no one wanted Café de García to disappear. Today we try to maintain what they did, with traditional menus and affordable prices, in a renovated space that's true to itself," says Francisco, partner and manager.
A year in the making, the bar reopened in January 2024. The restoration preserved the space's distinctive elements, such as the wooden bar, the floor, and the old cash register, among other details. However, the rooms where the founders had lived were demolished, and that area now houses a modern kitchen where snacks are prepared in plain sight. The bathrooms were moved upstairs, and the terrace was refurbished to accommodate tables for the first time in the bar's history. There's also the double-leaf door, a replica of the original, made by the carpenter of the Basilica of Luján. The sash windows continue to open in summer to let in fresh air and the scent of the wisteria that has been growing in a pot next to the red mailbox on the sidewalk for decades.
Café de García became famous for its abundant appetizers. No more minimalist cheese and salami platters: back then they served fish fritters, calamari casserole, caramelized sausages, and other delicacies made in-house. They said there were almost 30 small dishes in total. There was also strudel and a ricotta tart based on a recipe they're trying to replicate. For years, it was served only on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights; today, it's offered every day from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., when the bar closes.
“We continue with Hugo and Rubén's appetizers: more than ten cold dishes, then hot dishes, and finally we serve sweet bread with tap cider. Everything is updated with the times, but with generosity and the same spirit,” explains Francisco. The menu also pays tribute to its most famous characters: ribeye steak “El Ojo de Diego Armando,” salad “Metodio y Carolina,” skirt steak “Devoto.” “What we do is traditional cuisine well done, with products that hark back to our Spanish roots: tortilla, raw ham aged for many hours, Asturian fabada in winter. It's what has always characterized the café, without giving in to passing fads,” Francisco summarizes.
In addition to its gastronomy, the café added a year-round offering of cultural activities. Its walls remain a cabinet of curiosities and objects that tell the history of the neighborhood and the city: among its treasures were a score for the tango "Nostalgias" dedicated by Enrique Cadícamo, an original menu from the legendary Tabarís cabaret, ceramic remains from the house where Antonio Devoto lived, a coat rack from Café París in the La Boca neighborhood, and even a chandelier from the National Theater, according to reports.
When the restoration was completed, some pieces passed to the García family heirs, but many others remain part of the family's essence. The most important asset is Oscar Galarza, the waiter who has been in the service for 25 years.
Declared a Notable Bar and Site of Cultural Interest in 1999, this spring Café de García opens its terrace, confirming that tradition is present and that more important than following trends is offering an experience that makes you feel part of a neighborhood.
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