The hiking tip: The ideal of a castle

There won't be a visitor center for the time being. But that's unlikely to slow the influx of visitors to Münzenberg Castle in the northern Wetterau region. Like few other castles, the twin-towered structure embodies the popular notion of the defiance and splendor of the age of chivalry.

Just a glance at the design of the windows—some round and richly decorated, others pointed and smooth—indicates that even the Middle Ages lacked a definitive form. The Münzenburg castle is an almost ideal example of how the castle adapted to changing culture and architectural styles over the centuries, culminating around 1500 in a 200-meter-long protective wall of moat, half-towers, and battery towers to protect against the firepower of cannons.

In vain. At the end of the Thirty Years' War, the fortress lay in ruins and remained abandoned until the 19th century. During its reconstruction, beginning around 1850, the responsible authorities preserved the walls free of the Romantic ornamentation of the period and reconstructed them largely authentically. Thus, one of the best examples of how prestigious architecture underpinned claims to power in the 12th and 13th centuries was preserved – here with the towering hall buildings, the Romanesque palace with its magnificent window arcades, and a later one in Gothic austerity.

The unusual duplication of residential buildings was reflected in the towers. After the ministerial dynasty of Hagen-Arnsburg-Münzenberg, which had built the inner castle, died out in 1255, the Falkenstein lords, as the main heirs, did not hesitate to build a second castle in the western part. Together with the lords of Hanau, who also had inheritance rights and occupied the older part, they raised the inner ring wall and built a battlement.

Even this was preserved thanks to early restoration work. However, it was only after the castle was handed over to the State Palaces and Gardens of Hesse that a comprehensive renovation focused on accessibility began. Except for the outbuildings, the entire walls can be explored, and the eastern keep can be climbed via 150 steps.

A protective roof, recently added to the spire, is a reminder that the free-standing castle is severely affected by climatic conditions – more so than any external enemy once was. Sandstone elements, such as the massive, humped ashlars and the decorative furnishings, in particular, need to be protected. However, ongoing maintenance is not just a matter of historic preservation. The state could not wish for a more beautiful invitation to experience the cultural side of Hesse than with the Münzenburg Castle, which stands between two highways.

Rockenberg is chosen as the starting point. This promises a varied tour through the hilly landscape of the northern Wetterau, between forest and open spaces. Several nature reserves are also visited, including the "Hölle" (Hell), a refuge for the European pond turtle. Rockenberg itself has a generously expanded center, surrounded by a walled residential castle (accessible in the courtyard) and several Baroque buildings. Somewhat above, the parish church rises with its octagonal Gothic tower and Baroque nave.

There are plenty of parking spaces around the square, and the bus also stops at the town hall. After the station, follow Obergasse through the left and then right turns. Alternatively, you can continue straight ahead on Wohnbacher Weg, which seamlessly transitions into a paved field path. 100 meters past the last house, turn right to reconnect to the main line.

This avoids asphalt when, 50 meters after the right-hand bend in Obergasse, you turn left into the nameless little street and then continue onto the half-overgrown Hammelshäuser Graben. The grassy path continues past a narrow footbridge on the right; soon left again, and finally, upon reaching the crossroads, right and immediately left.

Continue through open countryside beside the ditch for another 150 meters past the high-voltage line before turning right, lined with fruit trees, toward the forest. Stay in front of it for about 200 meters, then bear half-right into the forest. This begins a long but moderate climb beneath beech trees. After about a kilometer, you reach an intersection. This is the signal to follow the blue ring sign to the left.

The trail descends gently back to the edge of the forest; here, it turns right, until a few hundred meters further on, you pass through a hollow in the fields, in the middle of which stands a raised hide. On the other side, you enter another small wood, behind which the Münzenburg Castle hovers almost unrealistically above the fields. Once again, you pass through a meadow valley, after which you climb on paved ground to Münzenberg with a view of the striking Buchberg.

To avoid the country road, keep left onto the asphalted field path, then right, left and right through the Hattsteiner Hof to the slightly offset castle entrance next to the (private) baroque part of the complex.

Coinsberg Hill, which is reached via the footpath, was built parallel to the fortress. Sections of the city wall and the Romanesque choir tower of the parish church, with its twisted spire, have been preserved. The old town center is characterized by many of the typical "farm castles" of Upper Hesse. Several also line Eichgasse, which continues until the left turn onto Hirschgasse.

The name recalls the large Deer Garden beneath the imposing, southwest-facing castle wall. After the crossroads, follow the blue X to the right. Above rolling farmland, a good kilometer later, you reach the hedge biotope where the "gallows" is hidden. Not much is known. However, an audio guide accompanying Münzenberg can reveal the gruesome story of an execution in 1742.

Circling the neighboring orchard to the right, cross the nearby country road. A good 300 meters beyond this, the X curves left onto a paved field path in front of a nature reserve. At the fork after 500 meters, take the right, grassy option. Continue straight ahead until 400 meters past the power line, at the level of the sandstone works, where you turn left. The bumpy path, unmarked, leads toward the "Hölle" nature reserve.

The sand quarry there has since been closed, and renaturation has been advanced to create conditions similar to those in the upstream area. With a bit of luck, you might spot one of the critically endangered European pond turtles, first released into the wild 25 years ago, basking in the sun. Waterfowl, in particular, dominate the scene against the rich reddish-brown sandstone wall.

Continue along the high walls of a correctional facility to Rockenberg. The church tower peeking out behind it could indicate the educational efforts of the institution, originally established in the 19th century as a "correctional institution" for juveniles. In fact, it was built on the site of the Cistercian convent of Marienschloss, which was closed in 1803, while the Baroque church—including its furnishings—remained untouched. In the village, climb the steps to the Gustav Adolf Church, built in 1908, and then descend to the right back to the starting point.

Rockenberg is located south of the Gambacher Kreuz between the Autobahns A45 and A5. From the latter, we recommend taking the Butzbach exit towards Lich.

There is no longer a train connection, but there is a bus number FB-53 from Bad Nauheim (HLB) that runs at least every hour.

It's impossible to miss: the Münzenburg Castle in the northern Wetterau region, dominated by two round towers. Its foundation by the ministeriales of the Hagen-Arnsburg family was part of the Hohenstaufen imperial land policy, and it was built after 1160 with a correspondingly large and imposing structure. After their extinction in 1255, the Falkenstein lords added a Gothic section, which they further reinforced around 1500 with enclosures and battery towers. Later derelict, the completely restored, semi-ruined complex can be visited, and the east tower can be climbed.

Rockenberg boasts several notable buildings. The expanded core is lined with a walled residential tower from the early 14th century and a palace-like Baroque building with a restaurant. A little further up stands the parish church of St. Gallus, with its Gothic octagonal tower and four guild houses at the top. The Baroque church of the Marienschloss Monastery, which was dissolved in 1803 and is located in a former prison, is visible only from the outside.

Münzenberg Castle is open daily except Mondays from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Public tours are offered on Sundays, starting at 3 p.m.