Dermocosmetics: What skin needs in winter

During the winter months, the natural protective functions of the The skin's moisture content is reduced to a minimum. Sebaceous glands cease production at temperatures below 8°C, and the small amount of viscous sebum that remains is difficult to spread across the corneocytes. The protective hydrolipid film is thin and permeable, leading to increased transepidermal water loss. The rate of evaporation increases even further, as cold, snowy air contains significantly less moisture than warm air. The cold causes blood vessels to constrict, impairing oxygen supply.

Weather conditions take their toll even on normal to combination skin, and for sensitive or rather dry skin, they become a real test of endurance. The fact that cell regeneration is already reduced during the winter months further accelerates this process. Dead skin cells are no longer easily shed, and the skin appears slightly sallow and gray. Signs of aging become more visible. Patients with skin conditions such as eczema or atopic dermatitis also complain of increased discomfort.

What kind of skincare can compensate for these deficiencies in skin structure? The German Pharmaceutical Journal asked the chairwoman of the Society for Dermopharmacy. "Dermocosmetics should contain a suitable base and active ingredients that strengthen or rebuild the skin barrier, especially in winter and particularly for dry, sensitive skin," said Professor Dr. Petra Staubach.

As a lipid component, she recommends phospholipids, ceramides, or ceramide derivatives, such as those found in oat, jojoba, wheat germ, grapeseed, or evening primrose oil. As endogenous substances, ceramides integrate well between the corneocytes, thus strengthening the regeneration of the epidermal layer. They form part of the skin barrier and also act as intercellular cement. Staubach, head dermatologist at the dermatology clinic of the University of Mainz, particularly values ​​their film-forming properties. "Only a well-spreading hydrophobic film on the skin surface can limit transepidermal water loss."

With a proportion of up to nearly 60 percent, ceramides constitute the main component of the intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum. Together with other lipids such as cholesterol and fatty acids, they form a lamellar layer. Because water is bound between the lamellar structures of the intercellular lipids, ceramides play a crucial role in regulating the skin's moisture content. They keep the skin soft and supple.

Natural or nearly skin-identical ceramides (such as those found in Curél®, Aveeno®, Exomega Control by A-Derma, Dermasence® Vitop forte, and Xeracalm® AD Replenishing Balm) can be applied directly to the skin as a cream, spray, or lotion. Phytosphingosine and sphingolipids are ceramide precursors that are incorporated into cosmetics and help the epidermis to produce more ceramides itself.