Rath checks in: This castle hotel on the Moselle awaits with wine and vineyards
Once again, our columnist checks in at "Schloss Lieser" on the Moselle. This time, the occasion: the first "101 Hoteliers' Wine Choice Selection Day," with Riesling expert Markus Molitor taking center stage.
No, the setting for this freestyle premiere could hardly be more extraordinary. The hotel "Schloss Lieser" lies below the vineyards like an enchanted fairytale castle. As a native of the Moselle, I have a deep connection to this region and the castle, which I always enjoy visiting. Pascal Renk has been the director since 2021, and he welcomes me personally. For years, the house was rarely used or stood empty before the current owner, former management consultant Piet Killaars, and his family completely renovated it. Carefully and with great attention to detail, they preserved the historic charm of the building, which was built in 1885. On the way to my room, the creaking of the old floorboards under my feet accompanies me, as if they wanted to whisper stories from times gone by.
The extensive renovation and restoration preserved the historic charm of the rooms and suites
© JF WIENS
I like the harmonious juxtaposition of Neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau, which also characterizes the layout and furnishings of my wood-paneled room. As I gaze out the window, across the Moselle to the Hunsrück, childhood memories come flooding back. For example, of my father once teaching me how to water ski here. Then I remember the mission I came here for: choosing an excellent wine.
Sensory control is an important quality assurance ritual for top winemakers like Markus Molitor
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In these latitudes, the thought immediately brings to mind the taste of slate soil. It's typical of the Moselle region and a blessing for the vines. This was also the case for those of Markus Molitor, the winemaker chosen for the first-ever "101 Selection Day," where the "101 Hoteliers' Wine Choice" is chosen. The concept is an exclusive treat: A selection of the "101 Hoteliers" from Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, a quasi-illustrious delegation, meets with a renowned winemaker to jointly select their favorite wine of the year. And all from a single, masterfully vinified barrel!
Together we set off to Markus Molitor's winery, just a few kilometers away, a good distance outside of Bernkastel-Wehlen. His name stands for authentic, age-worthy Riesling wines of international renown. Molitor cultivates Riesling and Burgundy grapes on more than 25 steep slopes, most of them Grand Crus. He relies on handcrafted methods, and the numerous awards he has garnered attest to his approach: five grapes in the Gault&Millau wine guide, five stars in the Vinum wine guide—and an impressive number of Parker points. For collectors, Molitor wines have long been a sought-after investment because of their stable value.
After the selection of the first “The 101 Wine Choice” wine, a visit to its steep slope on the Mosel follows
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The welcome is warm, and the hours spent with Markus Molitor open up new perspectives on his profession for me, too. The wine tasting is extraordinary: We sample five first-class wines "on tap." Molitor has an anecdote for each one, ensuing a lively exchange with the group of "101 Hoteliers." In an extensive, inspiring discussion, we weigh the differing opinions and tastes and ultimately reach the final decision together: Markus Molitor's "2023 Wehlener Klosterberg Pinot Blanc" is chosen as the first "101 Hoteliers' Wine Choice."
It wouldn't have been chosen without the meticulous preparatory work in the vineyard, emphasizes the literally excellent winemaker on the drive to the plot located between the castle and the estate. Here, Molitor has laid the foundation for his exquisite Pinot Blanc with meticulous soil management and gentle hand-picking.
It will now be bottled in 1,111 magnum bottles with an artistically designed label. Each bottle is numbered, making it truly unique and a sought-after collector's item. Almost half of the bottles were pre-ordered on the very first day of sale – by hoteliers for their guests. I'm sure the remaining bottles will quickly find their proud owners as well. Because, as the "101 Selection Day" demonstrated, this very special wine is generating great interest.
This time the four-course dinner in the castle will be accompanied by selected Molitor wines
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The day is celebrated with a celebratory dinner at "Schloss Lieser," hosted by the castle's owner, Piet Killaars, and his wife, Anja Killaars-Morbach. The Dutchman purchased the building in 2007 and spent twelve years renovating and expanding it, transforming it into the luxurious residence where we now enjoy an exquisite four-course menu. Once again, Molitor delights those present with his expertise. His carefully selected wine pairings harmoniously complement the dishes. That's what hospitality on the Middle Moselle looks like to me.
In addition to the regular "Rath Checks In" columns, Capital is publishing the anthology "The 101 Best Hotels: Germany 2025" in collaboration with hotel expert and editor of " 101 Best ," Carsten K. Rath. The book can be ordered by email at [email protected] or online at www.die-101-besten.de/buchband .
As the menu progresses, I'm reminded of the diversity of the team that hotel director Pascal Renk has assembled. During my visit two years ago, I noticed that many employees had come to the Middle Moselle from quite faraway countries. They're all still working here today and have clearly found a new, second home here, linguistically speaking, too. A cultural diversity that one wouldn't necessarily expect in this region, and which is indicative of the modern management and the dedicated leadership of the director.
What irritates me a little is that “Schloss Lieser” belongs to the “Autograph Collection” of the Marriott group, while for me associations like Relais & Châteaux or Preferred Hotels would have been a better fit.
For many years, the Markus Molitor winery has stood for authentic, storable (Riesling) wines
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In the evening, in my suite overlooking the river, I realize how much top hoteliers and winemakers have in common. Both pursue their professions with great passion and heart and soul. For both, excellence and quality are paramount – and the emotional connection to their product is strong. And: hoteliers and winemakers alike take their guests or customers on a sensual journey. This is called "savoir-vivre," a way of life that celebrates sophistication, joy, and authenticity. The longer I think about it, the more certain I am that we hit the nail on the head with the "101 Hoteliers' Wine Choice." Cheers!
You can enjoy the limited edition “2023 Wehlener Klosterberg Pinot Blanc” by Markus Molitor from November in the following “101 Best Hotels”:
- Alpenhof Murnau
- in Althoff Hotels
- Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Hamburg
- in all Grand Metropolitan Hotels
- Koenigshof a Luxury Collection Hotel, Munich
- Hotel Nassauer Hof Wiesbaden
- Riva – The Hotel on Lake Constance
- Hotel Schloss Lieser
- Park Hotel Vitznau
- Weissenhaus Private Nature Luxury Resort
Hiking along the Moselle: The varied landscape, vineyards, and historic sites invite you to enjoy exciting walks or more ambitious trekking tours – along the Moselle promenade or on the Moselsteig trail.
Bernkastel-Kues: This charming little town is just a few kilometers from the castle hotel. Stroll through the historic old town with its half-timbered houses, market square, and medieval town hall.
St. Nikolaus Hospital: This former hospital is located in Bernkastel-Kues and features a well-stocked wine shop in its historic vaulted cellar, where you can compare and enjoy the "liquid treasures" of the Moselle, Saar, and Ruwer rivers during a very special tasting.
1 Great cinema 2 If only it were always like this 3 Complaining on a high level 4 So-so, not oh, la, la 5 Better than a hostel 6 Explicit travel warning
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